We’re kicking off 2026 strong in watch news. Omega has just unveiled two new Speedmasters, clearly taking aim at the Rolex Daytona.

Following on from last year’s eye-catching, headline-grabbing white-dial model, we now have these reverse-panda versions—after what has felt like a fairly long lull in major Speedmaster releases.

One is in standard stainless steel, and the other in 18k Moonshine Gold, Omega’s proprietary gold alloy. Unsurprisingly, these have taken the watch internet by storm today—as any new Speedmaster inevitably does.

As you’d expect, they also come with long reference numbers.
The gold model is 310.60.42.50.01.002,
and the steel model is 310.30.42.50.01.004.

At this point, Omega is fully committed to the long-reference-number lifestyle, and I really wish they’d stop playing this slightly sadistic game with us.

I haven’t been hands-on with these yet—I’ve only seen the initial press material—but I do have some thoughts, as always, and I hope you do too. Feel free to share yours below.

The Speedmaster is, of course, a true industry icon. The meme-like phenomenon of Speedy Tuesday spans everything from Instagram to Reddit to WatchCrunch, so it’s no surprise that an enthusiast-pleasing release like this has been carefully timed.

What sets these apart from other Moonwatch variants is the detailing: ceramic bezel inserts, more deeply recessed sub-dials, and a polished black dial finished with a rich lacquer, similar to what we recently saw on the Aqua Terra.

This is a further elevation of the Omega Speedmaster. After all, this classic tool watch—like many others—has gradually been transformed into a luxury item.

And neither of these models is an exception. So yes, the once purely tool-like Omega we loved continues to drift further into luxury territory.

The gold model, unsurprisingly, features a few additional embellishments to justify its price, and we’ll come back to that shortly.

But in headline terms, what we have are two new 42mm Speedmaster Professionals, both offered on the rather stunning Nixon-style bracelet, complete with a clasp that features Omega’s excellent on-the-fly micro-adjustment system.

So what’s there for the watch world to dislike?

We’ll get to that.

The current Speedmaster Professional catalogue is already quite broad, with green-dial models and various rose-gold options, yet there are still some noticeable gaps.

These new releases fill one of them: the classic reverse-panda configuration—black dial, white sub-dials—offered in both steel and gold. The gold version builds on previous Moonshine models, but instead of a gold dial with black sub-dials, we now get a more complex three-colour layout.

Over Christmas, there was a supposed leak of a new tri-colour Daytona in a documentary featuring Rolex testimonee Michael Bublé. The quick turnaround suggests this Speedmaster probably isn’t a direct reaction, but it does feel like a statement nonetheless.

If that Rolex does exist, Omega seems keen to remind us that they know how to make the prettier watch.

That said, this release doesn’t do much to address the wider gaps in the Speedmaster lineup. Yes, we have the Speedmaster 38, but many of those lean heavily into a more glamorous, often female-focused direction, with gem-set bezels and mother-of-pearl dials.

We’re still a long way from the variety we once had across the combined Speedmaster Reduced and Speedmaster Professional ranges—those lovely blue, silver, red, and yellow dials. I’d love to see that kind of playfulness return.

For now, we’re not getting those fun watches, and that’s a shame.

The current fourth-generation Speedmaster Professional is a much more serious watch than its predecessors, and these two releases do nothing to change that.

What we’re seeing here is a clear statement of intent.

In recent years, Omega has slipped from second to third place in the Morgan Stanley watch industry report, with Cartier and Rolex enjoying massive gains off the back of post-COVID demand.

Last year, Omega took the fight to Cartier with the “My Little Secret” campaign and the introduction of smaller calibres—something I expect we’ll see rolled out across more models later this year.

These new Speedmasters, however, represent Omega continuing its long-running rivalry with Rolex—starting the year with a bit of firepower.

A panda-style Omega chronograph has always been a direct challenge to Rolex territory. This is nothing new—we’ve had panda Speedmasters before, along with countless other chronographs in the same style. It’s an iconic look, albeit one that Rolex has largely come to dominate in the public imagination.

The Daytona, of course, is more expensive than the Speedmaster. A new steel Moonwatch now starts at £6,200—more than it once did, though not as aggressively increased as some competitors.

The Moonshine Gold model unveiled today, however, comes in at a hefty £41,000. Omega justifies this not only with the new dial but also with solid Moonshine Gold hands and hour markers.

If that wasn’t enough to sway you, perhaps this will: of the watch’s 215-gram total weight, 185 grams are pure gold.

That certainly helps explain the price—though it must also be said, it looks very cool, which counts for something.

Movement-wise, nothing changes. Both models use Omega’s calibre 3861: a Master Chronometer-certified, co-axial escapement chronograph movement that we’re all very familiar with by now.

The steel model sits around the £10,000 mark—again, more expensive than the standard Moonwatch, just as the white-dial Speedmaster was before it. Instead of solid gold hands, you get rhodium-plated ones, keeping things firmly in classic Speedmaster territory.

If you’ve always found the traditional Moonwatch a little austere—perhaps in need of a touch more contrast or personality—or if you simply want the iconic design with a twist, this could be the one for you.

This may not be the release of the year, but it’s a compelling one. And it’s good to see genuine competition in the luxury watch space, with the age-old Omega versus Rolex rivalry kicking off the year in style.

What do you think? Let me know below.


Discover more from Doug's Watches

Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.

Leave a comment

Discover more from Doug's Watches

Subscribe now to keep reading and get access to the full archive.

Continue reading