If I said the words dive watch, chances are you’d immediately picture a Rolex Submariner. Maybe your mind jumps to the Omega Seamaster 300M or, if you’re feeling a little rebellious, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. These are the classics, the icons. But in the real world of diving, something has quietly taken their place — not just dive computers, but also this unassuming tool: the Citizen Promaster Diver.
So today, I’m asking the question: Is this all the dive watch you actually need? And more provocatively — is it secretly the best dive watch you can buy?
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A Brief History of Dive Watches
The history of the dive watch is as fascinating as it is contentious. Few categories in horology stir as much pride — or debate — as the dive watch. Everyone seems to want to claim they were first.
Omega says it was them in 1932 with the Marine, a watch water-resistant to 73 meters. These days, that might not even survive a strong hand wash, so the claim feels a bit flimsy. Rolex and Blancpain both argue they pioneered the true diver’s watch in the early 1950s, with the Submariner and the Fifty Fathoms respectively.
Why does this even matter? Because dive watches are important. They’ve been to the bottom of the Mariana Trench. They’ve co-starred with James Bond. They’ve graced the wrist of Steve McQueen — although, yes, that was a Rolex too.
The popularity of dive watches is driven by a mix of factors: cultural legacy, ruggedness, and versatility. But if you ask me, there’s another dimension to this. Dive watches come in two distinct styles: pre-quartz crisis and post-quartz crisis.
I’m not talking strictly about watches made before or after 1969, or the influence of Gérald Genta. I mean the ethos they carry. Before the quartz crisis, dive watches were tools. Afterward, and particularly into the 2000s, they became luxury tools — larger, shinier, and far more expensive.
Take the Submariner as an example. Over time, it evolved from a serious diver’s companion to a status symbol — think ceramic bezels, super cases, and five-figure price tags.
Which brings us to a different breed entirely: the Citizen Eco-Drive Promaster Diver.
The Citizen Promaster Diver — A Tool Watch That Still Dives
You’ll often hear it on YouTube: nobody uses mechanical dive watches for diving anymore. And it’s true — dive computers have taken over. But if you check a real diver’s gear bag, you might still find a Citizen Promaster tucked away.
Why? Because these watches work.
I remember watching one of those “Watches Of…” videos from the 1916 Company, where an actual diver swore by the Promaster back in the ’90s. That anecdotal evidence lines up with my own — the diver in my family (you know, the one who’s dived, dove… diven?) swears by his.
So why does the Promaster matter?
Because it offers real-world performance at an accessible price. At the time of writing, a Rolex Submariner will cost you about £9,100. The Citizen Eco-Drive Promaster? Just £249. Even if you spring for the automatic model, you’re looking at around £300–400.
And what are you really giving up?
Sure, the Promaster is “only” water-resistant to 200 meters compared to the Sub’s 300, but unless you’re a saturation diver, 200 meters is more than enough. It uses a mineral crystal — not sapphire — but it has anti-reflective coating and looks great on the wrist.
You get a 44mm stainless steel case, a screw-down crown, and a unidirectional bezel with tactile, bank-vault-clicking action that rivals watches twice its price. In fact, some Seiko Prospex models struggle to justify their premium when you compare them directly.
And let’s talk movements. The Submariner’s mechanical movement is a feat of engineering, but for a diver, it introduces risk — accuracy drift, positional variance, the need for regular servicing. Meanwhile, the Citizen’s solar-powered E168 Eco-Drive movement offers quartz accuracy with zero fuss.
Fun fact: this very movement forms the basis for TAG Heuer’s TH5 Calibre, used in their new Formula 1 Solargraph. So yes — your £249 Citizen has semi-Swiss credibility.
So, Is This the Best Dive Watch You Can Buy?
Yes — and no.
Yes, if you’re looking for a real tool watch for actual diving. If you want something reliable, affordable, and fuss-free, this is the watch to get. It delivers on the core promise of a dive watch without the luxury markup. And if you decide later it’s not for you? It was a cheap mistake.
No, if you’re buying a dive watch for desk diving — which, let’s face it, many of us are. For style-focused wearers, I’d point you toward the Tissot Seastar or even the Longines HydroConquest if your budget stretches. These are also capable dive watches, but more suited for daily wear and office life.
But the Citizen Promaster? This watch is for real divers. It’s a no-nonsense tool. A reminder that not all heroes wear luxury price tags.
Thanks for making it to the end. If you enjoyed this dive (pun intended) into the world of functional watchmaking, consider subscribing and checking out more of my work on Doug’s Watches — the thinking watch channel.
See you next time.
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